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New World vs. Old World

by Stephanie March   ::   posted on Mar. 22, 2007 - 10:44am

Have you read the "manifesto"?

Last December, some of the most influential men in food wrote what they called "an international agenda for great cooking". The Fab Four were Ferran Adria of El Bulli, Heston Blumenthal of The Fat Duck, Thomas Keller of The French Laundry and Per Se, and food scientist/author Harold McGee.

The agenda's main point is to debunk the term "molecular gastronomy" while celebrating the new horizons of food and technique. They believe that this is an important and historic era of cookery, but they don't want to be misunderstood by the next generation of chefs.

They want us to know that they have heart.

They want it understood that just because they use fancy machines and funky techniques and xanthum gum, it doesn't mean that passion need be lost. They believe in excellence, integrity, openness, and embracing innovation and evolution. They believe in that marvelous Brillat-Savarin quote: The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a new star.

I'm on board. I'm drinking the kool-aid foam and loving it. My brain is engaged with the New World cooking and I'm headed to Alinea in April to experience the new frontier.

But tonight, I'm going to Broder's Pasta Bar. I have been thinking about it for a week now, and I'm really in need of a beautifully crafted pasta dish. I've been thinking about the linguine with clams, because the pancetta makes it smokey and the peppers make it spicy. But I'm feeling Springy, so the spaghetti with Star Prairie Farms trout, sweet peas, lemon and basil might call to me. Sitting at the bar, watching the cooks swirl the pans with bright, fresh ingredients, adding the home-made egg pasta at the perfect moment, giving it a toss ... that's cooking to feed the soul.