So why is it that the bad boys of the kitchen get all the good press? Take Anthony Bourdain -- a foul-mouthed son-of-a-bitch whom a good friend of mine (an attractive, intelligent woman) told me just today is "her ideal guy." And Gordon Ramsay, the British chef who hosts a show called The F Word. Even our local culinary star Stewart Woodman -- formerly of Levain and Five, now the proprietor of Heidi's along with his wife -- has been known to throw a dish or two. But a woman chef with fiery tendencies tends to get a lower level of respect.
Now I'm not condoning bad behavior. I don't like it, no matter who's cursing out the dishwashers or attacking customers because they asked for ketchup with their steak tartare. Yet, when it comes to the guys, bottom line: it seems to be the food that matters. People forgive a lot when a man is an artist in the kitchen (and it doesn't hurt, either, if he looks like he'd be a beast in bed). Whereas when Marianne Miller showed herself to be a) one of the most talented chefs in the Twin Cities and b) a hot-headed malcontent under whose leadership restaurants collapsed like so many houses of cards, she was crucified.
This was back in 2005. Miller had moved from Red -- the wonderful, scarlet-hued Russian restaurant that operated in the Foshay Tower for about six minutes before repo men came to haul the furniture out -- to Bobino, a sweet little nordeast neighborhood spot that had been great once (when JP Samuelson was chef) and fallen into an intense mediocrity bordering on the bad. Miller revived that restaurant like it was a fat, dying banker on a bus. She tended to the overwrought, underdisciplined Bobino, conjuring up an absolutely dazzling menu and earning top reviews for a place everyone previously thought a bore. She was even offered a partnership by grateful owner, Chris Paddock.
Then, all hell broke loose.
The rumors flew. I probably shouldn't repeat them here, as I don't have a lawyer on retainer and all. Suffice it to say that over the summer of '05, the staff at Bobino mutinied, the restaurant closed, Paddock lost his shirt, and Miller was accused of just about every indiscretion a chef could commit, both upright and prone.
What actually happened? I know only one thing for sure. A truly great chef quit cooking. . . .for a long time.
But as of this week, I'm happy to report, Miller is back, running Saga Hill Cooking School on East Lake Street in Wayzata, just above Five Swans. And she's got a truly innovative curriculum. This afternoon (11/17), for instance, you can attend the mother/daughter high tea and learn how to set a table properly and bake flaky scones. On Sunday (11/18), Miller will run a two-hour Thanksgiving "Boot Camp" that goes over everything from side dishes to time management. Later in the month, there'll be a wine buying class and a detox-after-the-holidays seminar.
I don't know what kind of crap Miller has pulled in the many kitchens she's run -- and believe me, it's quite a list. I do know that she's someone I'd be glad to have teach me to cook, if I were even the slightest bit inclined. Being a bad girl doesn't seem to have made her a bad chef. Who knows? Maybe being a Bourdain-style loose cannon has made her -- like him -- inscrutably, maddeningly even a little bit better.
Saga Hill's upcoming classes include:
• Mother-Daughter High Tea
Grab
your best friend and confidant for a ladies' afternoon of learning proper
high-tea recipes, the art of table setting, and fine manners.
-
Hands
On
-
Saturday,
Nov. 17
-
2:00
p.m.-4:00 p.m.
-
$25
• Dinner and a Date
Calling all singles for an interactive mixer
of fun and food.
-
Hands
On
-
Saturday,
Nov. 17
-
6:30
p.m.-9:00 p.m.
-
$55
• Thanksgiving Boot Camp
Shop
and prep like a pro! Work smarter not harder! Practical advice on time
management and food preparation as well as foolproof recipes. You will leave
class with a shopping list, a plan, and the knowledge to make your Thanksgiving
dinner stress free.
-
Demonstration
-
Sunday,
Nov. 18
-
11:00
a.m.-1:00 p.m.
-
$45
•
Make, Take, 'n' Bake:
Prepare
all your Thanksgiving pies ahead of time and bake at home. Class fee includes
all materials needed.
-
Hands
On
-
Sunday,
Nov. 18
-
2:00
p.m.-5:00 p.m.
-
$65
•
Make, Take, 'n' Bake: Side Dishes
Prepare
all your Thanksgiving side dishes ahead of time and bake at home. Class fee
includes all materials needed.
-
Hands
On
-
Tuesday,
Nov. 20
-
2:00
p.m.-5:00 p.m.
-
$75
•
Wine Buying
Sample,
taste, learn and buy! Buy wine risk free for the holiday season at deep
discounts.
-
Hands
On
-
Tuesday,
Nov. 20
-
6:30
p.m.-9:00 p.m.
-
$20
•
Dog Day Afternoon
Treats,
tricks and walk. A perfect time to get out of the house and get moving with
your best fury friend. Learn to make healthy dog treats and some new tricks.
After class a group social walk will be offered.
-
Hands
On
-
Saturday,
Nov. 24
-
2:00
p.m.-4:00 p.m.
-
$45
•
Wine Series: Restaurant Guide
Insider
information on which restaurants have the best wine lists, value, and service.
Winetasting during class discussion.
-
Hands
On
-
Saturday,
Nov. 24
-
6:30
p.m.-9:00 p.m.
-
$45
•
Healthy Eating Boot Camp
Detox
and cleanse after the holidays.
-
Demonstration
-
Tuesday,
Nov. 27
-
2:00
p.m.-4:00 p.m.
-
$45
•
Wine-and-Cheese Pairing Class
-
Hands
On
-
Tuesday,
Nov. 27
-
6:30
p.m.-9:00 p.m.
-
$65
• Make, Take, 'n' Bake: Metabolism-boosting
soups
-
Hands
On
-
Wednesday,
Nov. 28
-
3:00
p.m.-5:00 p.m.
-
$65
• Young Chefs
Class
information to be determined. Please check back often for updates.
-
Hands
On
-
Thursday,
Nov. 29
-
4:00
p.m.-5:30 p.m.
-
$25
•
Ladies' Night: Salon
Class
information to be determined. Please check back often for updates.
-
Demonstration
-
Thursday,
Nov. 29
-
6:30
p.m.-9:00 p.m.
-
$45
• Holiday-Entertaining Boot Camp
Shop
and prep like a pro! Class information to be determined. Please check back
often for updates.
-
Demonstration
-
Friday,
Nov. 30
-
2:00
p.m.-4:00 p.m.
-
$45
•
Couples' Class
Class information to be determined. Please check back
often for updates.
-
Hands
On
-
Friday,
Nov. 30
-
6:30
p.m.-9:00 p.m.
- $45