The real test of a chef's talent isn't what they can do with foie gras or fresh black truffles. Those ingredients can make any chef look good, and the less you do with them, the better. The real test is what you can do with more mundane ingredients like beets, brussel sprouts and beef short ribs.
By that standard, Stuart Woodman's work at Heidi's (named after his wife and co-chef) is impressive. An appetizer billed as beet variation 13 combines a beet sorbet with roasted beets, topped with fennel and shallots, scented with juniper. The originality of the combination commands your attention, and then the subtlety of the flavors rewards it. Another appetizer, seared ahi tuna, breathes new life into the most over-exposed ingredient currently to be found on local menus: Woodman serves it over a thin slice of marinated roasted eggplant, and tops the fish with fried leeks, creating a delightful interplay of textures.
Woodman built his reputation at two high-end restaurants, Restaurant Levain and Five, both now out of business. Heidi's, in the former Pane Vino Dolce space, is a much more modest venture, with minimal decor, and entrees priced from $9-$19. You can get a decent glass of wine for as little as $5 (a rarity nowadays), though the list of wines by the bottle ranges all the way up to $109, for a 2005 Justin Isosceles Paso Robles.
My favorite dining companion, who doesn't eat meat, was delighted to find four acceptable options on the entree list: barramundi in a mussel broth; steamed halibut with kale, artichokes and fingerling potatoes; turnip ravioli with brown butter and pea greens; and (her choice) a vegetarian bolognese with firm, al dente pappardelle and an intensely flavorful mushroom chard sauce.
Lots of restaurants serve a pretty standard version of the molten chocolate cake, but Heidi's version (actually made by Heidi, unless I miss my guess) adds a flavorful seasonal twist: a hint of gingerbread spice.
My only gripe is about the decibel level. I only went to Pane Vino Dolce once, though I liked the food, because I found the decibel level painfully loud - like being trapped inside a steel drum. It's much better at Heidi's, but there is still room for improvement.
Heidi's Minneapolis, 819 W. 50th St., Minneapolis, 612-354-3512.
I went to Heidi's last night and loved it! I was with fun friends and I could actually see them across the tabe!! P. V. D. kept the lights very low, so low that I would drive by and wonder if they were open! I suppose that was the point, add some mystery! That worked well for them didn't it?
The chicken lolly-pops were fantastic! The dressing on the butterleaf salad, incredible! (and gorgeous!) I had the beef short-ribs on bok choy with spaetzle, AMAZING! The pheasant, tender and not gamey and the pork tenderloin also a winner! Portions and prices again were satisfying.
I have to say I never went to 5 or Levain, I heard stories of people stopping at Mcdonalds after leaving 5, because they were still hungry! And Levain just had some bad attitudes floating around which I heard from customers and people who worked there. And at that price point I won't put up with that kind of crap! I will drive 1 1/2 hours to Harbor View and pay 23.00 for the halibut before I will drive 1/2 mile to a place that serves you small art on a plate that leaves you hungry. I don't need that aggravation and I won't patronize it because some foodie with bottomless pockets eats there and loves it. (Sorry)
We shared the brulee at Heidi's and I thoughtit was good, my friends had trouble with the peppercorns. Oh well, more for me!
The only problems I see with Heidi's is the cold factor from the front door and it was noisey, but I am sure those can or will be addressed if they become a problem.
Its my new spot to recommend.