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For a Jewish Gen X'er, I have a strangely regressive Protestant work ethic. For instance, I tend to feel guilty when I have fun while I'm on the job. And after last Thursday at Thomas Liquors -- let me tell you -- my conscience is simply awash.

These guys are crazy, in a very good way. Led by Mike Thomas — the third-generation owner of what used to be St. Paul's party central (they were, Mike says, the "keg pros" for nearby Macalester, St. Thomas, and St. Kate's, until the drinking age was raised to 21) — this is a group that knows how to throw a wine tasting. Just to give you an idea: I think, at one point, around the seventh bottle, Dionysus wandered through.

Thomas Liquors is a little hard to find. It's on Grand Avenue, but only the solid brick exterior, painted with grapevines, shows streetside. We were in the back room around 4 p.m.: Mike, two wine vendors (Eddie and Corey), Dan — an employee — my good friend, Mary, and myself. There were shelves of liquor lining the walls, a round wooden table piled with bottles and books, and a space heater pumping out warm, red rays.

The topic of the tasting was French 2005's. Now, 2005 was an ideal year throughout Europe; all grape growing conditions were perfect: rain, sun, temperature, and ripening time. Compare this to — say — Italian films of the 1960s (when Sergio Leone was in his prime). Which is to say, even choosing at random, it's hard to find a bad one. Wine or western, as the case may be. . . .

In any case, the vintage was one thing. The company another. Thomas himself is a jovial former beer drinker who admits freely that some savvy vendor handed him a Wine Spectator 25 years ago and insisted THIS was the future of the liquor and spirits biz. Eddie is a recently married rep for Wine Adventures, and the proud purveyor of a Cotes du Rhone that's now near and dear to my heart (I'll get to this in a minute); his cell phone, which went off every couple minutes, played the theme from Batman -- the one that signals the boys are sliding skulkily into the bat cave. Corey, from Cat & Fiddle Beverage, was hawking a Chablis of all things and talking about the Catholic funeral (his first, apparently) he'd just attended: "Two hours long. But I liked that. When you're burying someone, you shouldn't be in a fucking rush."

It was a little like one of those afternoons in college when you know you should be studying but you amble down the hall to a friend's dorm room instead. Pretty soon, there are six or eight people sitting around and there's a guy playing a guitar, or Pink Floyd on the stereo, and you drink beer and order a pizza and someone reaches under a bed and pulls out a. . . .OK, never mind. We're not here to talk about the indiscretions of my youth, we're here to talk about wine.

So anyway, we sat around the table and passed our glasses back and forth and tasted more wines than anyone should in a single sitting. But the fact was, the mood was right and it was toasty and I love the theme from Batman. Also, there were crackers.

Of the '05's we sampled, here were my top picks (note: I'm not going to list the year for each -- they're all 2005 -- and prices are for Thomas):

Bourgogne Les Setilles -- all Chardonnay but there's no butter; instead, this is pure cream, smooth with just a hint of cardboard on the edges of the tongue; a nice body of apricots and peaches with a sexy, musky finish; 13% alcohol/$16.99

Billaud-Simon Chablis -- a very pleasant surprise for someone who associates the word "chablis" with the yellow liquid that was stored in my grandmother's refrigerator in a box; a light, flinty white with citrus and tropical fruit; 12% alcohol/$26.99

Louis Latour Pinot Noir -- the loamy bouquet of a French field; midweight with plenty of cherry and oak but NO anise; an incredibly versatile, drinkable wine; 13% alcohol/$13.99

Chateau Beauchene Grande Reserve Cotes du Rhone -- I saved this for last because it was my favorite by far; an absolutely exquisite wine made from vines that once were part of the Chateauneuf-de-Pape region; fig, blackberry and a diamond-clean finish with a wonderful whiff of something like vintage violin strings or library dust; 13% alcohol/$16.99

We tried a few others, too, truth be told. We laughed and talked about the movies we'd seen and where we went to college and had our first jobs. Corey gave Eddie marital advice, or the other way around. Nobody (thankfully) spat.

When we left the back room and went out into the store so I could pick up a couple bottles of the Cotes du Rhone, Mike introduced me to all of his employees and many of the regular customers in the store. We'd spent hours and if I didn't have hungry kids waiting at home I easily could have stayed on into the night. Thomas Liquors is a truly happy place. And more important, I suppose, they offer some excellent wines. Plus a really fine cracker. . . .

So I took notes and wrote the story and let all of you in on the secret of where you can get a downright beautiful French '05 for under $14. Can I stop feeling guilty now?