Pagoda

One of the great things about having a blog is that I get to post as much as I want about my own peculiar gastronomic obsessions. Of course, I don’t think there is anything peculiar about my love of little Chinese hole-in-the-wall noodle joints, or the fact that this is my third post on the topic in the last week, (after Relax and Keefer Court) but some of you might.

This time, it’s Pagoda, a new restaurant and bakery at 1417 4th St. S.E. in Dinkytown. Actually, it doesn’t quite qualify as a hole-in-the-wall – unlike most of the cheap Chinese noodle joints, the owners obviously put some money and some thought into the build-out, which includes floor to ceiling glass, faux-slate floor, bakery counter, an exposed kitchen and lots of flat-screen monitors playing Chinese karaoke.

The menu is mostly Chinese – barbecued pork and duck, rice plates, stir-fries, noodle soups, pan-fried noodles, fried rice, congees, but there’s also a little bit of everything else Asian, from Korean and Thai seafood hotpots to Indian style curry chicken, Japanese squid and regional specialties like a terrific Szechuan fish fillets in spicy brorh ($9.95, and big enough for two.) Nearly everything is under $10, and best of all, the place is open till midnight Sunday to Thursday, and till 3 a.m. on weekends.

Pagoda, 612-378-4710.