Month: September 2007

  • Gold Chain Guidos

    After noticing my previous post, someone asked me how a Guido could afford an M3. Well there is a difference between common Guidos (also known as Larrys) and Gold Chain Guidos. Guidos work in the chain store, Gold Chain Guidos own multiple chain stores (likely through some Ponzi scheme.)

    2008HummerH3AlphaBadge_01.jpg
    An automotive badge frequently accessorized with a gold chain

    While Gold Chain Guidos are fond of BMWs, the Hummer H2 or H3 Alpha is their favorite ride. If you would like to know more about this species, simply take a little field trip to Bellanote’ in Minneapolis on Thursday night.

  • Bye Bye Big Buck

    buck.jpeg

    To know thyself. . . .no less a mind than Socrates said it’s important. And I agree.

    For example, I’m a food writer but I am not Ruth Reichl or Calvin Trillin. Culinary trends don’t rise and fall with my whims. And I’ve come to terms with this. OK, I’m working on coming to terms with it. But in any case, at least 90 percent of the time, I’m pretty clear about who I am.

    Many restaurateurs struggle, however. Little Midwestern bistro chefs suddenly start thinking they’re on par with Lupa and take to offering scrambled eggs with foie gras toast at $24 a plate. Successful coffeeshop owners decide to open three-tier dance clubs, or franchise their “original” concept in 37 little towns. In other words, they forget who they are. And the results are rarely good.

    Take Big Buck. It was opened in Minnetonka a couple years ago by Jennifer Jackson and Eliot King — the couple who brought you Prima, on 53rd and Lyndale in Minneapolis, and Three Fish on the perimeter of Lake Calhoun. Big Buck was supposed to be their “destination” spot: they were serving wild game — elk and boar — along with steamed mussels and something they called “roasted duck cigars.” But within months, the critics shouted en masse: great hamburgers and grilled salmon; forget about the rest. It never caught on.

    So recently, Jackson and Eliot did a very smart thing. They closed Big Buck — quietly — and replaced it with Prima-Minnetonka, a larger, full-bar rendition of the little Italian eatery, serving panninis, pastas, and a tasty little Caesar salad, along with wines in the $5-8 a glass range.

    I want to be clear: these people are very, very good at putting together a nice, neighborhood meeting place. A restaurant where you can feel comfortable and well taken care of and get out for under $25 a head. Prima is a lovely little 55-seat bistro; and Three Fish is one of the most reasonably-priced nice seafood places around. But Jackson and King simply don’t have the drawing power of a Tim McKee or a Stewart Woodman or an Alex Roberts — all chef-owners whose reputations will cause people in St. Cloud or Red Wing to get into their cars and drive into town.

    Score one for self-awareness. And as it turns out, the move probably was good for the Jackson/King duo financially, as well as in a personal growth sort of way. Their press release [curiously] reports that since the change to Prima, female diners are flocking to the Minnetonka location. And wine sales are way, way up.

    I grew up in Minnetonka, actually. I’ve been acquainted with the housewifely lunching crowd in that area for more than 30 years. And no one understands better than I the way the wine flows over servings of butternut squash pasta with pine nuts and caramelized pears.

    So I may not be Calvin Trillin — yet — but I know myself well enough that I’m aware running to Cub and Tonkadale Nursery, then ducking in for Happy Hour at Prima every afternoon, is not for me.

  • Hassell traded to Dallas for Buckner

    First of all, a hat tip to PiPress columnist Charlie Walters, who wrote the other day that Trenton was going to the Mavs, a rumor that, citing Shooter’s “spotty” reputation on such tidbits, I belittled.

    Second, I don’t like the deal. Greg Buckner is about two inches shorter and three years older than Hassell, which, given that both are defensive specialists, is not a good sign. Buckner has a little more range on his jumper but is less accurate overall as a shooter. Probably most significantly, Buckner is nearly $2 million cheaper over the next three seasons, and I suppose if the Wolves are going with youth anyway, the vets on the bench can be discounted.

    [Update: A smart reader just informed me that because Buckner’s third year is a team option and thus not guaranteed, Wolves could save up to $5.79 million in this deal.]

    That said, Buckner was a quality defender in Denver who actually shot a little better (especially from the three point line) and defended a little worse than expected in Dallas. Along with money, I suspect this has its roots in the spat that occurred last spring, when Coach Wittman benched Hassell for a period of time and the relationship between the two was obviously strained.

    Another thing: Buckner is not going to be able to get his stuff together and travel to Turkey at the drop of a hat. Thus he will be behind the curve when he does arrive for training camp.

    To sum up, from the Wolves standpoint, losing Hassell saves some [make that potentially quite a bit of] money and loses a locker room leader from the bad old days at a time when they are trying to wipe the slate clean.

    From my standpoint, Trenton Hassell was always a class act, a guy who would honestly answer questions with general good humor and became a crucial glue guy in the starting lineup almost from the moment he joined the team during the franchise’s best-ever season in 2003-04. Two years ago when he was asked to look for his shot more often, he posted a career best 9.2 ppg, but always said that defense was his priority and his meal ticket. I saw him less than nine hours ago, sought him out as I was leaving the Wolves’ media day, gave him a sympathetic kind-of “keep your chin up” sentence or two because we both knew he was on the outs with current braintrust. Then I wished him luck. And he got it, headed to a team that figures to go deep into the playoffs. Trenton Hassell will help grease that momentum.

  • Chew on This

    veg.jpeg

    Darn! Shiraz Fireroasted Cuisine offers a terrific deal on Mondays and Tuesdays: order two entrees, and get a bottle of South African Mazulu Shiraz on the house. But I can’t persuade my wife to go there with me because they don’t have any vegetarian or seafood entrées — just beef, lamb and chicken. Best bests on the menu include the beef and chicken kabobs and koubideh (ground meat kabobs), the lamb shank, and the bastani, Persian rosewater ice cream. 6042 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-861-5500.

    Kung Gang San Korean Restaurant (the former Shilla, which was a lot easier to remember) has added a sushi bar – billed as Sushi World, plus a lunch buffet ($9.95) featuring mandoo (panfried dumplings), kimbop (Korean vegetarian sushi roll), kalbi (broiled short ribs), several varieties of kimchi, and more, plus a sampling of their sushi specialties. 694 N. Snelling Ave St. Paul (651) 645-2000.

  • Randy Foye: "I am the leader"

    It was the Wolves media day this afternoon and this exchange with Randy Foye was probably the most interesting conversation I had.

    Who is the leader of this team? I asked Foye, point blank.

    “I’ll take it,” Foye said instantly. “I am the leader. There is pressure in that but I like it. I don’t think there are a lot of people in their career get a chance to say, `I was the leader of an NBA team.’ That’s how I am approaching things and how people approach me. I am the leader.”

    In the locker room as well as on the court how will your status as the leader change the way you behave? I asked.

    “My motto is that you practice what you preach and you lead by example,” Foye answered. “If you are in the locker room goofing off before a game and someone else is watching and I’m supposed to be the leader, [they will think], well I can do that too. Well I might be able to go out on the court and perform, but that person who is goofing off, he can’t do it. So I am just going to come in with a straightforward attitude…my situation growing up, I am a natural born leader; I never was a follower of like anything. If someone said, Oh let’s go do this, if it didn’t feel right I wasn’t going to do it, even if he was my best friend.”

    Third question: Who are you most looking forward to playing with this year?

    Foye: “I am looking forward to definitely playing with Al. I’m looking forward to playing with Theo, because the way he’s playing, he blocks everything. I’m looking forward to playing with Corey, and with Gerald, just because I love lob passes, and I’m looking forward to playign with my boy Craig, my best friend. And I’m looking forward to playing with the guys I played with last year. And with Ryan Gomes, because I played against him in the Big East and I know how he likes the ball.”

    Otherwise, Coach Wittman confirmed that Al Jefferson will likely be playing a lot of center, although he doesn’t want to wear him down defending against the bigger bangers in the league–Dampier of Dallas was specifically mentioned. And Witt did say that Marko Jaric will be given a look at point guard, and made it clear that Marko gets frustrated when he doesn’t get touches and that getting touches for Marko wasn’t something he went out of his way to do last season; the implication being that Marko doing some point time would kill two birds with one stone in that respect; make Marko happy and give the Wolves a vet at the point when Foye and presumably Telfair need a blow.

    Al Jefferson was impressive. It wasn’t clear to me whether he requested it or it was given to him by management, but he will be ensconced in KG’s locker space, a circumstance that he responded to with a nice blend of “I’m honored” and “I’m not the least bit intimidated.” When I asked him why his game took such a big jump last year, he essentially replied that it was the first time he really dedicated himself to working hard and getting himself ready to go, even with the injuries. And when I asked if he felt the Wolves needed to prove something to him just as much as he needed to prove something to management, he said being traded for Kevin Garnett was proof enough on management’s commitment. When another person asked about re-upping his contract, rumored to be in the works, he demurred and said he’s just concentrating on playing ball.

    Gerald Green offered nothing but platitudes to a variety of questions, which doesn’t mean anything about how he’ll play on the court but also offers zero insight into what makes him tick.

    The Wolves head out to Turkey and won’t be back for a couple of weeks. By then, the sifting of the roster will have begun. It is a shame, though perhaps financially understandable in these lean times for journalism, that neither the Strib nor the PiPress are sending their beat writer along.

  • Porketta Marie sausage wrapped in a spiral of breadstick dough

    My Sausage Sister & Me was founded by the Gasper sisters. It was their intent to make plump, juicy, flavorful sausages with some surprising and memorable twists in taste. To date, they have Italian, Asian, Southwest, and one they call Minnesota Nice with pork, wild rice, grated carrot, onion and seasonings.

    INGREDIENTS


    2 packages Sausage Sister & Me Porketta Marie sausage
    1 tube breadstick dough
    Seasoning of choice such as garlic, basil, or basic grill rub
    Parchment paper

     

    METHOD:

    Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper for easy clean-up. Remove sausages from the package, wipe away moisture with paper towel. Open breadstick dough tube and separate dough into 8 pieces. Allow 5 minutes for dough to soften.

    Holding on to each end of the dough stick, gently wiggle the dough, elongating it another 2 or 3 inches. Starting at one end of the sausage, wrap the dough in a spiral manner toward the other end. Place dough ends down on the parchment lined baking sheet. Bake at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until bread dough is golden.

    My Sausage Sister & Me
    My Sausage Sister & Me
    (612) 986-7298
    www.sausagesisters.com
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  • Pollo Adobado

    Ingredients


    1 fryer chicken, cut into 8 pieces
    10 guajillo chiles, stems removed
    2 chipotle chiles, stems removed
    1/2 yellow onion, rough chopped
    4 tablespoons garlic, minced
    2 tablespoons oregano, dry
    2 tablespoons cumin, ground
    2 tablespoons kosher salt
    2 tablespoons black pepper, course ground

     

    Method


    Heat saute pan and toast chiles until they turn darker red in color and little wisps of smoke appear. Place chiles in a sauce pan and add water to cover. Bring to a boil and simmer (about 15 minutes) until chiles are soft. Drain chiles and reserve liquid.

    Puree chiles in blender with onion and garlic, adding cooking liquid as needed. Strain through fine wire mesh strainer and add remaining ingredients except chicken. Mix well and marinate chicken in spice paste for 1-2 hours.

    Roast chicken at 375 degrees for 30 minutes or until an internal temperature of 165 is reached.

    Serve immediately.

    Chino Latino

    Chino Latino
    2916 Hennepin Av. S.
    Minneapolis, MN 55408
    (612) 824-7878
    www.chinolatino.com

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  • Pastina con Agnello

     

    This recipe comes from an area just outside of Benevento. Pasta is typically the “primo piatto” (first course) served, but because this recipe includes lamb it can be used as first and second courses. Suggested wine pairing: Taurasi or Aglianico del Vulture

    Ingredients:

    • 1 3/4 pounds lamb, deboned
    • 4 eggs
    • 1/2 cup (50 grams) prosciutto, sliced in strips
    • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    • 3 tablespoons tomato sauce
    • 1/4 cup Pecorino (Romano, Sardo, or Toscano), grated
    • chopped garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper (to taste)
    • one package (454 grams)  “pastina” (look for Punte d’ago, Ditalini, Acini de pepe, or Anelli)

    Method:
    Hard boil eggs (approximately 13 minutes). Allow to cool, remove shells, and cut into small pieces. Cut raw lamb into very small pieces (be sure to strain all drippings from cut pieces).

    In a large pan over medium heat, add olive oil and chopped garlic. As soon as the garlic is soft, remove from the pan and add lamb pieces. Lower heat and brown lamb slowly. Add tomato sauce and simmer for a few minutes. Add prosciutto strips, 2 tablespoons of water, and a dash of salt. Stir and simmer for a few minutes.

    In a pasta pan, bring to water to boil, add a tablespoon of salt and stir. Return to a boil and add pastina. Cook according to package directions.

    Drain the pastina. In a large pan, add the pastina and the lamb mixture. Add a dash of pepper, finely chopped parsley, and chopped eggs. Sprinkle Pecorino on top.

    Buona Pasqua!

    Serves 4 to 6

     

    Alycia’s Southern Italian Tours
    Alycia’s Southern Italian Tours
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  • Pan-Roasted Squab with Peaches

    Ingredients:


    4 squabs (dove or pigeon)
    1/2 pound whole unsalted butter
    1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
    5 peaches (white freestone if possible)
    2 cups chicken stock (preferably homemade)
    2 shallots, peeled
    2 garlic cloves, peeled
    1 bouquet garni (10 black peppercorns, 2 thyme springs, 2 bay leaves and 1 slice of fresh ginger)
    1 teaspoon fine sea salt
    1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
    1 teaspoon superfine granulated sugar
    2 tablespoons cognac
    2 tablespoons Grand Marnier

     

    Method:

    For the peaches: Cut a small "X" on the bottom of each peach and plunge them into boiling water for ten seconds. Transfer the peaches to an ice water bath and allow them to cool. Peel the peaches and cut them in half lengthwise to remove the stones. Be careful not to damage the peach halves. Place eight peach halves to the side and reserve the skins and stones along with the two remaining peach halves for the sauce.

    For the squabs: Season the squab inside and outside with salt and pepper. Brush two tablespoons of melted butter over them. Heat the oil in a skillet over high heat and lightly brown the squabs on all sides. Roast them in a 450 degree oven for twelve minutes. Remove and allow them to rest for ten minutes. Separate the breasts from the carcasses and pour off the fat from the pan.

    For the sauce: Place the pan over high heat. Add a tablespoon of butter, the shallots, the garlic, the squab carcasses, the reserved peach skins and stones and the two peach halves. Deglaze the pan with the cognac and Grand Marnier. Make sure to use a wooden spoon to scrape any bits from the bottom of the pan. Reduce the liquid by two thirds and add the stock and the bouquet. Simmer over gentle heat for twenty minutes while making sure to skim the surface of fat and impurities as needed. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve, return it to the pan and reduce until it becomes slightly syrupy. Keep warm.

    For the plate: Preheat the broiler to hot. Sprinkle some sugar over the peach halves and glaze them under the hot broiler (approximately 2 to 3 minutes). Set them aside. Bias-slice and fan four of the peach halves and place them at the bottom of each plate. Arrange two breasts in the middle of the plates so that the thicker parts are at the top. Place a peach half near the top of the plate. Heat the plates in a very slow oven (250 degrees) for approximately four minutes. Meanwhile, remove the sauce from the heat and whisk in a tablespoon of whole butter. Season it with salt and pepper to taste. Remove the hot plates from the oven and spoon the sauce over the squabs. Serve immediately with roasted potatoes and leeks.

    Preparation time: 30 minutes
    Cooking time: 20 minutes
    Yields: 4 servings

    Heartland
    Heartland
    1806 St. Clair Ave
    St. Paul, MN 55105
    (651) 699-3536
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  • Mediterranean Tuna Salad

    A sophisticated twist on a family favorite, Mediterranean Tuna Salad is delicious on a crusty baguette, mounded on organic field greens, or tossed with cold cooked pasta.

    Ingredients:


    4 6-ounce cans albacore tuna, drained well
    4-ounce can artichoke hearts, drained and cut in quarters
    3/4 cup diced red bell pepper
    1 cup sliced pitted kalamata olives
    1 small red onion, minced
    1/ 4 cup Italian flat-leaf parsley, minced
    1/2 cup fresh basil, minced
    1 teaspoon fresh garlic, minced
    1 teaspoon dried oregano (or 1 tablespoon fresh if available)
    1 cup canola mayonnaise
    3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
    freshly ground pepper to taste

     

    Method:

    Combine tuna, artichoke hearts, red pepper olives, onion, parsley, basil, garlic and herbs; mix well. Add mayonnaise, lemon juice, and pepper. Stir together well; chill and serve.

    Serves 2 to 4.

    Linden Hills Co-op, a member of Twin Cities Natural Food Co-ops

    Twin Cities Natural Food Co-ops
    www.mwnaturalfoods.coop

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