Heartland goes on holiday

It is a sad fact that every year Heartland, the restaurant and wine bar on St. Clair Avenue, closes its doors for two weeks in summer. This is because owner Lenny Russo (formerly the executive chef at Cue) and his wife, Mega Hoehn (the wine maven), work non-stop the other 50 weeks a year — also, because there’s a death-like lull in our region’s food service industry during cabin season.

What it comes down to is this: you have only two more days to get into the Heartland Wine Bar — arguably the best little boîte in St. Paul — for a glass of something truly unique and great. Along with your wine, you’ll enjoy the eclectic musical selections of manager Christa Robinson (from The Floaters to Brenda Starr), and the evening’s amuse bouche: a tiny ramekin containing chilled carrot mousse with fresh dill or duck confit and grilled ramps on a homemade wheat cracker.

Then, on July 1, Heartland will close for two weeks, reopening at 5:30 on July 17. So if you have time this warm, sunny, summer weekend, I heartily suggest you stop by to try one of Mega Hoehn’s hand-picked whites:

Von Schleinitz “Slatestone” Riesling 2004 (Mosel, Germany) — Sweet on the middle of the tongue but tart around the edges, this wine is full of honey and orange zest; it’s also thicker than you might expect a Riesling to be, filled with wild flowers and the taste of warm sunshine. I recommend this wine with light food such as pasta, risotto, or broiled whitefish. (10% alcohol)

Domaine de la Racauderie Demi-Sec Vouvray 2004 (Loire Valley) — This buttery golden wine has an astonishing bite that’s all sweet onion and chive; but its lingering flavor is slightly citrusy, grassy with a hint of marigold, and very sturdy. The extra-long finish makes this Vouvray a red drinker’s white. Drink it with shellfish or salmon, paella or pork. (12% alcohol)

Marqués de Cáceres Rioja 2005 (Rioja) — Who knew a Rioja could be so white? This wine is a confetti of lemon and musk and a weirdly satisfying hint of roquefort cheese. Crisp, smooth, and very dry, with firm fruit and a lingering finish on the back of the tongue. A white that can stand up to pork, lean meat such as bison, or cave-aged cheese. (12.5% alcohol)