Taj of India

Few things are worse than a British pub passing off grilled pita as naan. Uptown now offers yet another great refuge from this kind of fraud, and it’s a cheap date, too. Taj’s naan is exactly what it should be—barely leavened, slightly charred on top and a little glossy with a brush of ghee. At the lunch buffet we found nothing as scorching to the palate as the output from the old Sri Lanka, which inhabited the same space in a previous incarnation. But the milder spice temp lets you actually taste the wonderful mosaic of flavors in their chicken masala, beef curry, and a good selection of vegetarian curries and dals. A new treat (to us, anyway) was French-cut potatoes deep-fried with spinach clinging to them. Another nice surprise: ras malai for dessert. This is a disc of soft, white cheese served in a pool of sweetened, creamy milk. Scout’s honor, you’ll like it. They promise beer and wine are coming soon.


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