Napa Valley Grille

On a recent weeknight, we had the few odds and ends to pick up at the Mall of America and decided to see what was cooking at Napa Valley Grille. Chef Tom Anderson was up to his usual stuff, so it was extremely hard to decide what to order—not that the menu is terribly long, just thoroughly interesting. We looked to the wine list and were equally challenged. The list, filled exclusively with California wines (get it?), gives some helpful hints: a short list of “unique” whites and reds and an interesting sampler flight for those of us Undecideds who often end up ordering combo meals. Having been recently introduced to the Steele Wineries, we decided on their ’98 Pinot Noir, from Bien Nacido Vineyards near Santa Barbara. From that exceptional bottle, everything became easier, and it seemed we could make no errors in our other choices. Our patient waitress, on her fourth try, finally coaxed our order from us. For an appetizer, we passed on the escargot in favor of fantastic pan-roasted mussels with tiny red potatoes, tomatoes, and a salsa verde. The salads held their own—with an unusual smoked trout dressing on the Caesar, and figs, Stilton, and walnuts to punch up the Arugula. (Never pass up anything prepared with figs: that’s our motto.) After satisfying entrees of salmon and a beef tenderloin special of the day, we turned our heads for the first time during the meal, to see that the Vikings were on the TV in the bar, and the Mall was, in fact, still out there. We considered our surroundings over an after-dinner sip of Beaulieau Muscat, and felt we’d seen more of Napa Valley than Bloomington, Minnesota, that day. Napa Valley Grille, (952) 858-9934


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